Passive homes

A house that heats itself, almost

A passive house keeps warm through its fabric rather than its boiler. Thick insulation, an airtight shell, triple glazing and fresh filtered air make a home that stays comfortable all year on a fraction of the usual heating.

What it means

Passivhaus is a performance standard, not a style

Passivhaus started in Germany in the early 1990s. It doesn't dictate how a house looks. It sets hard limits on how much energy the house can use and how much air can leak out of it, and the house is tested to prove it.

A passive home can be a cottage, a farmhouse or a glass-fronted modern house. What they share is the detail underneath: continuous insulation, no cold bridges, and an airtight layer that's sealed by hand around every junction, pipe and cable.

That detail is where most builds fall down, and it's what we do every day.

~75%less space heating than typical UK new build
0.6ACH @ 50 Pa: the Passivhaus airtightness limit
0.48ACH @ 50 Pa: our best result, at East Netherton
15kWh/m² a year: maximum space heating demand
The five principles

How a passive house works

Get these five right and the house does the rest.

01

Super insulation

Deep, continuous insulation in walls, roof and floor. We use wood fibre and blown recycled paper wherever they fit, with walls typically around 0.15 W/m²K or better.

02

Airtightness

A sealed inner layer taped at every joint and service entry, then tested with a blower door. No draughts, and the heat you pay for stays inside.

03

No thermal bridges

Junctions at foundations, windows, floors and roof are detailed so there's no route for heat to leak out, and no cold spots for condensation or mould.

04

Triple glazing

High-performance windows and doors, fitted within the insulation line. South-facing glazing brings in free heat from the sun, even in a Scottish winter.

05

Heat-recovery ventilation

MVHR supplies fresh, filtered air to every room and recovers most of the heat from the stale air going out. Clean air, all year, without opening windows.

+

Low-carbon heat

With so little heat needed, a small air source heat pump, infrared panels or solar can cover it. Some of our homes need little more than a heated towel rail.

Choosing a standard

Passive, near-passive or eco?

Not every plot, design or budget suits full Passivhaus. We build to all three levels, and we'll tell you honestly which one makes sense for your project.

PassiveNear-passiveEco / low-energy
Airtightness0.6 ACH @ 50 Pa or betterAround 1–2Well beyond building regs
Heating demandVery low, often no main heating systemLowReduced
VentilationMVHRMVHRMVHR or natural
GlazingTriple, carefully orientedTripleDouble or triple
Design freedomShape and orientation matter mostMore flexibleMost flexible
Best forLowest possible running costsMost of the benefit, more flexibilityTight sites, conservation areas, budgets

Certified or "built to the standard"? Formal Passivhaus certification adds design modelling and independent checks, with a fee. Many clients choose to build to the standard and test airtightness without certifying. Either way, we build the same detail.

Why it's worth it

What it's like to live in

  • Even warmth in every room, with no cold corners or draughts
  • Very low heating bills, year after year
  • Fresh, filtered air, good for allergies and condensation-free
  • Quiet: thick walls and triple glazing shut out wind and road noise
  • Protected against rising energy prices
  • Built from timber and natural materials, with a lower carbon footprint
  • Comfortable in summer too, with shading and ventilation designed in
  • A durable, well-detailed house that holds its value

Thinking about a passive home?

Talk to us early. The sooner we're involved, the easier it is to get the design and the cost right.

Start a conversation